Tacking and dot and dab are the two main ways of fixing plasterboard in a home. Both end the same way — taped joints and a skim finish — but they suit different walls, ceilings and jobs. This page explains the difference in plain terms so you know what to expect when you ask for a quote.
Tacking means screwing plasterboard to ceiling joists or to the timber or metal studs of a partition wall. Dot and dab means bonding plasterboard to a brick or block wall with dabs of adhesive. In both cases SJF Plastering then scrim-tapes the joints and skims the whole surface, leaving it smooth and ready to decorate.
Tacking is the plasterer's word for fixing plasterboard to a frame with screws. On a ceiling the frame is the joists; on a partition it is the timber or metal studs. The boards are lifted into place, cut around light fittings, pipes and openings, and screwed at regular centres so they sit flat and do not sag or bounce between fixings.
Tacking is used for new stud walls, loft and garage conversions, replacing a ceiling that has been taken down, and overboarding a tired ceiling that is still structurally sound. Joints are staggered where possible so the finished surface stays strong and cracks are less likely to show along board edges.
What is dot and dab?
Dot and dab is a dry-lining method for solid walls. Instead of screws, plasterboard is bonded straight onto brick or blockwork using dabs of board adhesive spread across the back of the board and around its edges. Each board is pressed into the dabs and lined up straight and plumb, which lets it bridge hollows and bumps in the wall behind.
It is a quick way to get a straight wall over uneven masonry, and because the board is dry it puts very little moisture into the house compared with traditional plastering. The board and adhesive do take up a little room space, so we take that into account around windows, sockets and skirting.
Dot and dab vs stud wall vs wet plaster
Each method has a place, and the right one depends on the wall you have and what you want from it.
Dot and dab
Pros: quick, relatively clean, little moisture and good at straightening an uneven solid wall. Cons: the wall can sound hollower when knocked, heavy fixings need the right plugs, and it relies on the wall behind being sound and dry.
Stud wall (tacked board)
Pros: builds a new wall or lines an existing one with a void for cables, pipes or insulation, and gives a very straight surface. Cons: it takes more space than dot and dab and needs a properly built frame first.
Wet plaster
Pros: a solid, hard-wearing surface that feels and sounds substantial, and often suits older solid walls. Cons: it introduces much more water into the room, takes longer to dry before decorating and is harder to keep straight on a badly uneven wall.
Our board-and-skim process
Whichever fixing method is used, the finish follows the same steps.
Boarding. We check the wall or ceiling for level and plumb, then tack boards to joists or studs, or dot and dab them to masonry, cutting neatly around sockets, switches and openings.
Scrim taping joints. Joints between boards are covered with scrim tape, internal angles are taped and beads are fixed to external corners and reveals so edges stay crisp.
Skim finish. The whole surface is skimmed with finish plaster and trowelled flat, ready for a mist coat and decorating once dry.
When to choose each
Tacking: new ceilings, overboarding a sound but tired ceiling, and new stud partitions
Dot and dab: solid brick or block walls that are uneven but sound and dry
Stud lining: where you want a service void or insulation behind the board
Wet plaster: where a solid, hard-wearing finish suits an older solid wall
Any method: damp is dealt with first — board should never hide an active damp problem
If you are not sure which applies to your room, send us photographs and we will give you an honest view at the quotation stage. You can also read our dry lining guide or see the main plasterboarding and dry lining service page.
Areas we cover
SJF Plastering is based in Sutton and carries out tacking, dot and dab and skimming across Surrey and South West London, including:
Tacking is the trade term for fixing plasterboard with screws to timber or metal — usually ceiling joists or the studs of a partition wall. Once the boards are tacked up, the joints are taped and the surface is skimmed to give a smooth finish.
Is dot and dab better than plastering?
Neither is better in every case. Dot and dab is quicker, introduces far less water into the room and copes well with uneven masonry. Wet plastering is harder wearing, sounds solid when knocked and suits older solid walls where breathability matters. We recommend one after looking at the wall.
Can you dot and dab onto old plaster?
Only if the old plaster is sound and firmly bonded. Adhesive dabs are only as strong as the surface they stick to, so loose, blown or crumbling plaster is removed back to the masonry first. Painted or dusty surfaces may also need preparing so the adhesive grips.
How long after dot and dab can you skim?
The adhesive needs to set firmly before the boards are taped and skimmed. Drying time depends on the adhesive, the thickness of the dabs and the temperature of the room, so we follow the manufacturer's guidance rather than a fixed number of hours and will not skim boards that are still moving.
Do you need to skim plasterboard?
For a smooth painted finish, skimming is the standard approach. Board can be taped and jointed instead, but a full skim gives a flatter, more consistent surface, hides joints and screw heads, and is the usual finish in most homes.
Ready to board and skim?
Call 07967 302162 or fill in our quote form and we will arrange a free quotation.
